Life Bubbling Over In Vino Veritas: Golden State’s Sparklers

Posted on 04. Nov, 2008 by Administrator in Lifestyle

words by Wine Dog – Bob Ecker

Lily Bollinger, heiress to the French Bolinger Champagne company, famously said, “I only drink champagne when I’m happy, and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.”

She nailed it. Let me ask you, who out there doesn’t love a gorgeous glass of bubbly? Besides being delicious, Champagnes and sparkling wines seem to make every occasion festive. Did you know it is estimated that each glass contains 12 million bubbles? (Bring that up at your next party!)

We clink it, we drink it. In days of yore, a host would pour a bit of his guest’s wine into his own glass and drink it first to prove it was safe and not poisoned. If the guest trusted his host, he would merely clink the host’s glass as a symbol of trust. What a fine tradition.

Pierre “Dom” Perignon, (born in 1638) a Benedictine Monk at the Abbey of Hautville near Riems, experimented with sparkling wines in the latter part of the 17th century. Although some were produced before him, Dom Perignon established a standard and effective process for the production of Champagne. Most of his techniques are still used today including riddling, adding dosage for secondary fermentation, and using corks to seal bottles. Full scale commercial production began in the Champagne region around 1700 and has been going strong ever since. Only sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region of France are legally allowed to be called “Champagne” and are given different names in other regions such as Cava, Prosecco, or simply sparkling wine.

It’s true many of the world’s best sparklers are French Champagnes, notably: Dom Perignon – rich and sensual; the creamy feminine Veuve Cliquot; Delamotte – a zesty, under-the-radar winner; and the always bold Tattinger. Though I certainly love these wines, my favorite Champagne remains Grand Cuvee from Krug. Elegant and toasty with a long, languorous finish – this is the dazzling, quintessential, king of full bodied Champagnes.

However, there has never been a better time to enjoy California bubblies. Besides offering excellent and varied flavor profiles, most are reasonably priced. Both pinot noir and chardonnay grapes grown in the cool Carneros region of Napa/Sonoma and beyond are combined, in capable hands, to create spectacular wines.

Schramsberg (the oldest sparkling wine producer in Napa) makes many fine sparklers including their luscious, magnificent J Schram Rose. Its fresh pinot noir and chardonnay flavors (from various Northern California appellations) arrive on the palate in perfect balance, with slight strawberry characteristics that cannot prevent a smile. Wow, what a delight. Domaine Carneros is another fabulous Carneros producer; their 2002 Le Reve Blanc de Blancs (which means “white of whites”) is a beautiful concoction with flavors of green apple and pear as innocent as a mountain stream. You can’t go wrong enjoying the wines of Healdsburg’s J Vineyard’s & Winery. Their stylish bottles complement powerful, captivating bubbles.

Yountville’s Domaine Chandon offers many products including the fun and engaging Etoile Rose and is bottled with a crown cap (pop top). Incidentally, DKNY has partnered with Chandon, celebrating the clothing brand’s twentieth anniversary, with a limited release bubbly, beginning in 2009. Called “Twenty Year Cuvee” this soft, approachable blend will be a fine addition to the fashion forward scene. Not to be omitted is Mendocino’s Roederer Estate production, the impressive Roederer Estate Brut, a medium bodied graceful sparkler supple on the tongue, yet warm on the heart.

One of my everyday Napa favorites is the crisp and shining Mumm Napa Valley’s Brut Prestige. This clean, tasty straw colored wine is exactly what an enjoyable sparkler should be. Fresh, sharp, and affordable, Brut Prestige goes with everything. Mumm has also just released their Santana Brut Reserve, (Carlos Santana’s private dosage) which has a full body, many high notes, and a long lasting finish.

Champagne and sparkling wines are delectable, even glamorous beverages, but try not to get fooled or overcome with hype. Best to ask around, compare, and try them for yourself. Don’t stick to ordering only one brand, it’s boring. Remember you can’t taste image, you can only taste wine. And the only thing bad about Champagne is that it goes down way too easily. Salud!

Have a wine question or comment? winedog@h-monthly.com

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