My life has come full circle. I last reported on a Mexico adventure in the very first issue of h, where I spent a blissful week decompressing and kicking my addiction to television in Sayulita, Mexico, a charming fishing village 30 minutes north of Puerto Vallarta.

Now, two years later, I am invited to the El Careyes Beach Resort in Mexico’s best kept secret, Costa Careyes (not that far from Sayulita actually) mid-way between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo on the Pacific Ocean. I knew this would offer me a wonderful opportunity to take stock and see if I could again unwind and stay far away from the computer and television. Upon arriving at El Careyes on a warm day in late April, I realized this was what decompressing in Mexico was all about. There was literally magic in the air, and although I really love exploring new cities, I knew I probably wouldn’t venture out of this haven even if Heidi Klum and Seal invited me over for dinner at their nearby spread (an entirely
unlikely scenario).

To begin with, my suite is incredible – it’s bigger than my entire apartment in L.A. and my view of downtown L.A. is replaced with a view of the ocean from my deck that sends goose bumps down my spine.  Everything I need in life is right here. I have a beautiful, winding, free-form swimming pool with the ocean steps away, a lovely restaurant (La Lantana) that promises many delightful meals, a private screening room stocked with movies, a library, spa, gym, and a business center that has the calm of a spa. I promise myself I’ll only check email once a day (which quickly becomes every other day).
I was very fortunate to share El Careyes with some of its Italian royalty who where in town for a wedding, the Brignone family. This brings me to the Resort’s roots. El Careyes Beach Resort was founded in 1968 when artist and architect Gian Franco Brignone came for a visit to Mexico. While flying over the untouched Coast of Careyes, he realized his dream to create an enchanting and environmentally conscious resort that combined the sensuality of the Italian and Mexican cultures. He named it Costa Careyes (the Turtle Coast) because the beaches provide both sanctuary and nesting ground for giant sea turtles. The Resort holds up to his vision with its Mediterranean and Mexican architecture, pristine shores, private bay, and preserved natural landscape. Sensual it is. With 48 rooms and suites, there are also three casitas that feel like they belong in an exquisite romantic movie.

I spent many blissful days at the pool watching these incredibly dressed Italians enjoy life with a gusto that I immediately admired. I also made a new friend in General Manager Miguel Rivero, who lends his own magic to this paradise. He takes good care of everybody at El Careyes, and although he’s one of the hardest working men I’ve met, you wouldn’t know it, because he does it all with an ease and grace that everybody around him warms to. He’s been here for many years now, so I take the opportunity to find out about the really important things: What’s his favorite food at La Lantana? He lights up: “For Breakfast, Huevos Motuleños, they are delicious. For the afternoon, Vuelve a la Vida (or a fish or shrimp soup), and for the evening, the rib eye or chicken rolls with cuitlacoche.” Over the week, I test his favorites, each and every one of them, and they are incredible. I also indulge in a platter of fresh seafood that I will not soon forget; from lobster to ceviche, to mahi mahi, to shrimp, and swordfish, it is nirvana (and the margaritas didn’t hurt either)!

He also fills me in on what makes El Careyes so magical: “This is a very peaceful place. You get a better quality of life that is beautiful and filled with gorgeous sunsets.” I ask him if he has a favorite season: “I like every single day here! We only have two seasons, rainy and dry. The rainy season is really hot, however it is the best time of the year to swim at sea and the sunsets are breathtaking: The sea turtles hatch on the beaches and the landscapes are a lush green. The dry season is cooler, the hotel is full of activity but landscapes are grayish. I personally like the end of the rainy season which is November or early December when everything is green and fresh.”

I can definitely see the appeal of living here year round. Back at the pool, I spend my days fantasizing about writing a novel, one in which days and seasons and words connect effortlessly, cell phones don’t ring, and evenings are spent walking the beach and indulging in that incredible screening room. During the day, I would take boat rides, go horseback riding, and relax in the quiet spa. I would never get bored with the food, and the international travelers would replace the television set. There are many reasons to venture outside of the resort, I know this, but for now, I am satiated with the Magic of El Careyes; it’s warmth, sunsets, inviting calm, and intoxicating scents. I definitely sleep and dream better here and even find that elusive calm I live for.

As the dreaded departure day arrives, I slowly pack up my belongings and say my goodbyes as I make my way to the airport in Manzanillo. I take one last moment before getting in the van to soak up El Careyes. A thought brightens my departure —   I know I will be back some day soon to take stock again, decompress, and pay homage to Gian Franco Brignone and his vision.

www.careyesresort.com

Relaxing is torture. As a type A personality, the very thought of doing nothing panics my mind. Having grown into the urban stereotype of simultaneously texting, driving, eating, while needle pointing, chaos has become peace.
While some challenge themselves with extreme sports like snowboarding or rock climbing, loafing in a hammock with a piña colada is my Mount Everest.

Destination: The Virgin Islands. 

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS 

In the British Virgin Islands, what they call taxis more closely resemble the kind of buses that drive you from your car to the amusement park entrance. Seating 16 comfortably and 20 intimately, these brightly colored vehicles are the main mode of transportation. While traveling down an unpaved road, hugging cliff side curves, my taxibus made an unexpected stop. While we were waiting, I took in the scenery: chickens, goats, cows, a 10 x 10 shack boasting to be a… 

(1). Post Office 

(2). Taxi Stand 

(3). Ambulance 

(4). Fruit Stand 

The bus driver opened his door, walked to the back of the bus and handed me his cell phone. “It’s for you,” he said casually and then took his place in the drivers’ seat. I was en route to my resort destination in a random taxi, via a dirt road with more farm animals than humans. I was truly gob smacked as to who could possibly be on the other line. 

“Hello, is this Jen?” queried a female voice. She had a Caribbean accent a slight giggle in her voice. 

I responded like I had never used a telephone before, “Yes.” Long, weirded out pause. “Who is this please?” 

“This is Oma from Biras Creek. I just wanted to make sure you were taken care of. We’ll have a ferry waiting to pick you up the taxi destination. See you soon.” 

When I asked how she could possibly know where I was and how to contact me, Oma responded, “We have our connections.” 

Well done, Biras Creek. Having your hospitality staff quasi-clairvoyant is great for biz. As my ferry arrived at the resort, I seemed to be experiencing tropical hallucinations. My vision focused, and the mirage seemed so real – a man and a woman waiting at the end of the pier with tropical-fruity-girly-umbrella-drinks in hand. The chilled glasses even had the requisite layer of refreshing dew just like in the commercials. 

Often resorts make the mistake of over grooming, giving the grounds a miniature golf course-like look, sans the fun windmills. Biras Creek has no need for faux landscaping. With lush Almond, Mahogany, Sea Grape, and Palm trees (of course…), rocky cliffs and natural hiking trails, their design is smart enough not to guild the lily. 

Biras Creek Resort is less MTV Spring Break, more Morning Becomes Eclectic. The staff is knowledgeable regarding local culture, and their touch is remarkably personal. If these folks aren’t as genuine as they seem, they sure fake it well. 

To prove my point, I will briefly explain how my trip to paradise was turned on its head, and how the Biras Creek staff saved my vacation. I brought my two best friends on this trip, which prior to this adventure had never publicly disgraced or humiliated me. Beware of the potent Caribbean Rum. This pair got sauced up and really made guest assistants Brian and Jerzy
earn their salaries. 

I was indisposed ensuring that my friends weren’t ripping each others weaves out in a boozy spat, or I would have engaged in all sorts of relaxing activities. So began the search for my drunken M.I.A. amigos. Noticing that our charming old-timey-style bicycles had been taken out for a spin was my first clue. These bikes were apparently made with quality craftsmanship, as one withstood a D.U.I. crash into a wall remarkably well. The basket didn’t even dent and the bell still worked. Awesome! 

After leaving the scene of the apparent bicycle wipeout, I followed the trail to the isolated salt water pond. Peaceful and picturesque, this scene provided the perfect moment of relaxation, and slowed my heart rate to a borderline cardiac arrest rate of 375 b.p.m. For five whole minutes, I walked on the beach and looked up at the full moon that was certainly living up to its reputation. 

Jerzy and Brian witnessed my attempts to unwind as I twitched in the moonlight. I hitched aboard their golf cart, and we made a tour of the resort, search and rescue style. Stopping at the dining hall for a bite to eat, I inhaled a fresh wild mushroom quesadilla (perfection!) and downed tonic for the soul – a glass of 2001 Italian Amarone red wine. Recharged and ready to go, we checked the ocean side pool, and no signs. Down to the fitness center (that my lazy ass had admired from afar…) but no luck. 

After searching the orchid trail, I began to care less and less where these two had disappeared. I stood at the top of one of the tallest peaks in Virgin Gorda, took a deep breath, and had a moment of self-realization. I spun around and took in the 360 degree view of the Caribbean, my stomach was full of scrumptious food and I was buzzing from a delicious glass of wine. Paradise seduced me with her wiles, and I was rendered utterly relaxed. 

By the time Jerzy and Brian took me on a midnight sail past a spooky ghost boat, I had completely forgotten about the humiliation ashore. It came all too clearly into focus again when I returned to my suite to find Goldilocks and her sister unconscious in my beautiful canopied bed, which was soaking wet from a pile of their scanty clothes. Apparently, the girls had enjoyed a fully-clothed leisurely swim with a group of new associates in our private plunge pool during my search mission. Next ferry, exit hungover girlfriends. 

Long story short (too late), the trip ended with Rik Blyth the GM intersecting my trip back to the ferry via the only road in Virgin Gorda. He was standing roadside, holding an iPod which I had left behind. My friend and driver Mr. DooDoo grabbed my iPod like the Olympic torch and kept driving, ending my journey as randomly as it began. Next time, maybe I
really will try and relax. 

U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS 

On the way back to St. Thomas, before crossing over the invisible British / U.S. Virgin Islands border, I floated by two of the most glamorous islands known to the modern mogul. Necker Island and the up and coming Mosquito Island are a short nautical jaunt from “mainland” Virgin Gorda. Both islands are owned and operated by the ever quirky mad genius
Sir Richard Branson. 

Necker Island is the premiere celebrity royale destination, hosting the likes of billionaire weddings, private performances by Bono, and visits from Warren Buffet, just to namedrop a few regular shmoes. Mosquito Island is the new Necker, and is currently under Top Secret construction using pioneering green technology to make for a getaway as conscientious as it is over the top. The Necker pad was voted #1 on MTV Cribs, and Mosquito is positioned to rival this cultural statement upon its opening. 

Once arriving to St. Thomas, I checked into the family friendly Crystal Cove resort in the Red Hook section of the island. Completely different than Virgin Gorda, St. Thomas is much more Americanized in its culture, and because of it being a U.S. territory is slightly more affordable than the B.V.I. Globetrotting newbies will find the atmosphere more familiar and less stressful than international travel. 

Crystal Cove is set in a mellow coastline nook. This is a privately owned resort, also renting out time-shares. The amenities include a full kitchen, multiple bathrooms and a spacious living area. I had my belongings sprawled out in every room, making myself at home and sadly, periodically remembering it wasn’t. One of the most magical moments of my Virgin Islands excursion was with a tiny green lizard. 

Walking through the grass after the rain, I saw an old timer iguana making her way to the Hibiscus plant for a snack. She made me remember my beloved late green iguana Linda, who passed on to the big heat rock in the sky some years ago. She had me wishing in my reptilian heart that I would get to see a baby iguana during my stay. 

Not five minutes later I was in the reception area, and the security guard, Leon, having read my mind – handed me a baby iguana who had found her way into the office copier. He presented her to me as if he had heard my silent wish. I took her, placed her on top of my head and fell in love. 

She was my best buddy for the next two days, and had divine powers of relaxation. The plan was to smuggle her in my hair through security. I just couldn’t bear to leave her behind. I hid her on my shoulder, and I was prepared to risk my freedom for this forbidden lizard love. Literally, steps before the entrance to customs, she jumped off my shoulder and into a Bougainvillea bush. 

I tried to find her. I tried so hard. But time was running out and I had to make my flight. I had plans for the little lady lizard, big Hollywood plans. She could be a Spokeslizard, or an attraction on Hollywood Boulevard – the sky was the limit! But truly she was a small town iguana and wasn’t ready to live out the dreams that, maybe, I was dreaming for both of us. She couldn’t bring herself to say goodbye. Sssssh, little reptile. No words. No need for goodbyes. Our tropical love is forever. 

Biras Creek Resort (Virgin Gorda, B.V.I.) 

www.biras.com 

Necker Island (B.V.I.) 

www.neckerisland.com 

Crystal Cove (St. Thomas, U.S.V.I.) 

www.stthomasvacation.com

Accommodations
One of the best places to stay while you’re at the festival is the Heathman Hotel – a new hotel that is as luxurious as you can get. It’s not for nothing that their motto is “Where service is still an art”.  Should you wish to try something more traditional, check out the Woodmark Hotel.  Guests can take advantage of a trip on Lake Washington for a token fee of $10 each and it’s well worth doing. One of the houses you’ll get to see is that of Bill Gates, along with his motorboat.  You’ll also get the unmistakable Seattle skyline and the Sleepless in Seattle floating home.   Not surprisingly, the waterfront is a popular place to watch brides and grooms have their wedding photography taken.

Food
One of the nicest places to eat on the lakefront is the Yarrow Bay Grill at Carillon Point.  Enjoy a peaceful dinner as you look out onto the boat traffic of Lake Washington and the Olympic Mountains. There’s no better place to spend a summer’s evening.  There is a Wine Spectator acclaimed wine list here and the food is inspired from the Northwest and around the globe. Chef Vicky McCaffree has received numerous culinary awards for her delicious dishes.
The Trellis restaurant at the Heathman Hotel is also extremely popular and for good reason. The food here is market fresh and features products from local artisan producers.  Executive Chef Brian Scheehser, with nearly 30 years of culinary experience, practices sustainable farming on his three-acre nearby garden, growing many of the fresh ingredients featured in his signature “Two Hour Salad” where the ingredients are harvested within
two hours of being served.

Bridle Trails State Park
Bridle Trails State Park is a 482-acre day-use park, well known for its horse trails and equestrian shows.  You might be lucky enough to watch youngsters perform in a horse competition or see the world’s smallest horse on display. Alas, these little horses, a mere two feet high, only live for five years since they often come with health problems that don’t allow them a long life.  Adorable in any case and even non-horsey people will enjoy a day out at this beautiful state park.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery
One of the most refined wineries to check out in the neighborhood has to be Chateau St. Michelle which was founded in 1934.  It has been producing classic European varietals under the Chateau Ste. Michelle label since 1967 and the winery combines an ongoing dedication to research with a commitment to world class winemaking traditions.  The Chateau Ste. Michelle enjoys partnerships with two of the world’s most distinguished vintners. Col Solare is an alliance with Tuscany’s Piero Antinori and Eroica Riesling is a partnership with the Mosel’s Ernst Loosen.  Take the wine tour – you won’t be disappointed. Built in 1912, the estate, which takes up 87 aces, was owned by lumber baron Frederick Stinsen and this was his summer home.  Over 1.5 million cases of wine are made here every year. 
Kirkland is a town well worth checking out.  As we raise a glass to the city, we say “cheers” to that.

Strolling on the powdery sand of Lanikai beach and gazing at the sunrise is the perfect Hawaiian experience to soothe the soul.

Lanikai and the adjacent town of Kailua are located on the southeast coast of Oahu, also known as the “windward” side of the island. There are no hotels on the beach which makes it an ideal location for those seeking a diversion from city life. Visitors can stay in a house or cottage which can be rented through www.lanikaibeachrentals.com.

The accommodations are tucked away within the sheltered neighborhood of Lanikai where the stressed-out urban dweller may be tempted to relax in seclusion for the entire stay. However, one should definitely venture out for relaxing walks on the beach, and there are day trips to sites around the island that are worth the drive (keep the island vibe by tuning the car radio to 102.3 FM for Hawaiian music).

The culinary options on this side of the island reflect the relaxed mood. For very casual, local comfort food, visit Boots & Kimo’s, Sushi Man, K&K Barbeque and Island Snow. For dinner, check out Buzz’s Steak House and Pinky’s. Don’t miss the Kailua farmer’s market on Thursday at 5:00 P.M. in the Longs Drugs parking lot. The array of Hawaiian produce, tropical fruits, local roasted Kona coffee, and freshly prepared food is a local treasure.

Active visitors who want to enjoy local ocean sports and activities such as windsurfing, kayaking, and snorkeling can rent equipment from the local businesses servicing the Kailua Beach Park area. For spectacular views of the bay, hikers can get to the peaks above Lanikai via trails off of Kaelepulu Drive.

Some day trip options include snorkeling at Hanauma Bay, a morning trek up to Diamond Head and a drive up to the North Shore. The historic town of Haleiwa on the North Shore is home to an assortment of shops, galleries, restaurants (including Giovanni’s shrimp truck) and the famous shaved ice at the M. Matsumoto store.

Returning to the windward side of the island, the Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden is a wonderful place for a mauka (picnic). It is one of the few public places to hang out near the base of the steepled cliffs of the Koolau Range.

For an escape from hectic urban living, avoid the resort hotels in Waikiki and retreat to Lanikai for a beach cottage vacation where every day brings Hoomaluhia (peace and tranquility).

Am I the last woman standing who hasn’t been to Costa Rica? My mind has been racing with all that I have heard about the country during the past six years or so. Numerous friends, family, and family of friends have all spoken about this great Central American land with such longing to go back there. The natural beauty that Costa Rica posses is envied and desired by other countries who have lost tourism to Costa Rica’s plentiful bounty and

carefree lifestyle. 

I finally decided to make the journey to Costa Rica with a group of close friends and my travels led me to Playa Junquillal off the North Pacific Coast in the Guanacaste region. Suggestion: Don’t make the same mistake I made asking, in my best Spanglish, “How do I get to Junquillal?” I made the mistake of pronouncing it “jun-queel-lal”. From the Payless car rental man to the lady selling frutas on the side of the road, to the bar keep of one of the many Imperial-themed bars, they all looked at me with a floating question mark hovering above their heads. The problem was that they had absolutely no idea where I needed to go. I had to say it is near San Jose, the capital and largest city in Costa Rica. If I had bothered to find out, the correct pronunciation is “unk-eel-al”, then maybe I would have arrived there sooner rather than later. 

I flew in through one of the two International airports, San Jose International. Flying in through the other, Liberia, would have been more convenient, but was about 200 dollars more expensive. If you are planning on going to the North Pacific, or nearby Liberia, I highly recommend flying through Liberia International. That way you really don’t need to rent a car, you can just take a bus to your location. If you want to rent a car, keep in mind that driving through San Jose will take you about five hours or so, allowing time to get lost and dealing with all the rocky roads. The easiest and most flexible way to travel in Costa Rica is to rent a car. Rent a 4-wheel drive. It will provide you with a much more comfortable ride during the rainy season, from May to December, as well as driving over many roads that are unpaved. There is a ton of construction from new condos and resorts coming to life, as well as the paving of the rocky roads. The good thing about flying through San Jose is that you get to drive over their newest bridge, “La Amistad”. The Puente de la Amistad de Costa Rica-Taiwan (Costa Rica-Taiwan Friendship Bridge) spans the Tempisque River in northern Costa Rica. It’s a hybrid bridge composed of a cable-stayed span and a pillar-supported bridge. 

I stayed at the lovely beach Hotel Iguanazul and I rented a room with an awesome ocean view. That’s what I woke up to every morning! They offered poolside views as well. Mind you their beaches in the North Pacific are pretty much filled with more sand than people which can be a welcome site coming from the hustle and bustle of the “big city”. My friend and her family stayed at the Hotel’s House that is for rent, which includes their own pool, stereo, and is chock full of various amenities. Hotel Iguanizul has exceptional food at totally affordable prices. Breakfast is a must, then comes mid-day treats, i.e. the incomparable Bloody Mary, then maybe a dip in the pool. Ahhh, the good life, or rather the “pura vida”, which means the pure life. That’s pretty much what Costa Rica embodies. 

Tuesday our group including my boyfriend Kevin, my best friend Lisa, her husband, Bryan, and their two kids, Noah and Sarah, headed south from Tamarindo (not too far from Playa Junquillal) which contains several undeveloped beaches: a surfer’s paradise! I boogie-boarded the day away and let the waves crash over my head like a ton of bricks, ouch, but oh, so much fun. Beyond Tamarindo and Playa Langosta are Playa Avellanas and Playa Negra. We went to Playa Avellanas and ate at Lola’s, a casual restaurant and bar right on the beach. Lola is actually a giant pet pig that waddles onto the beach and then wades in the ocean. What a sight, pretty much the last animal I expected, but totally appreciated! I was thrilled to find out that they are vegetarian-friendly (no pork on the menu, gratefully) with local fish and chip favorites on the menu for non veggies as well. 

Wednesday came (sadly my last full day in this paradise) and I could not leave Costa Rica without having a crack at zip-lining, which is what I told everyone back home that I was going to do! So, the pressure was on because if I didn’t zip-line, I’d have to go home with my tail between my legs. The extremely welcoming staff at the Adventure Tours of Hacienda Guachipelin gave me memories for a lifetime. First we went horseback riding. The tour was filled with scenic trails and amazing sights of the native flowers and fauna. Unfortunately I had my head up most of the time, with the hope of seeing my fave rave, the elusive sloth. I find them very sweet mind you, but alas, elusive they must be. Our generous and more than capable tour guide took us to the Oropendola Waterfall: A 25 meter high waterfall with emerald-green water. I was extremely hot from the ride and after the short hike, the waterfall was a breathtaking sight. I was grateful to discover that we could take a dip in the cold, cold water. Thankfully our guide supplied towels after this refreshing break. 

Then came the Canyon Canopy Tour where you can also enjoy more than just zip-lining. Rappelling, rock climbing, canopy, tarzan swings, via ferrata, hanging bridges which are all set in the majestic canyon made by the erosion of the Blanco River Valley for the last few millions of years. I only partook in the zip-
lining as well and the Tarzan swings. When I was getting ready to be fit for my harness, I felt like a Nascar driver with a pit crew, but instead of changing my oil and tires, they put on my harness and helmet in 32 seconds flat! I thought I would be super scared, but the confidence and trust I had in all the guides was unsurpassable. Flying through the air, with the greatest of ease, made me feel like I was in one of those flying dreams, but you are awake. My eyes were fully open and I was taking in the vast beauty that surrounded me. I must have been going 35-40 MPH up hundreds of feet in the air. This is something you HAVE to try, especially at the Guachipelin Tours. The staff is wonderful and congenial. Check out their website for the fullo scoop on what they offer. 

Remember to bring plenty of American dollars: One’s, Fives, and some Tens. You can pretty much pay with American currency or use your credit card, and it’s pretty easy to figure out the exchange rate. It takes about 517 Costa Rican colones to one American dollar. If you see a price tag of about 10,000 Colones, it comes out to just above 20 bucks. I just double the “thousand” and there you go. Let employees know that you wish to pay with American dollars and they’ll do the rest for you, but keep in mind the exchange rate. 

That all being said, leave your troubles behind and make the awesome sunsets a daily ritual as you live the “Pura Vida”!

Here are some helpful websites…. 

For lodging, amazing views, and hospitality go to:
HotelIguanazul.com 

For Adventure Tours and exciting times go to:
Guachipelin.com 

For Car Rental with friendly and informative staff go to:
Payless.com 

Visit costarica.com or govisitcostarica.com for up to date information about Costa Rica.